Why We Age: And what you can do to keep it "graceful"

We’ve been talking about “skin-esteem”, how your skin’s appearance connects to your confidence and mental well-being, and what to do when your skin is bumming you out. 

Aging is one of the biggest skin frustrations because it eventually effects everyone. And everyone wants to look and feel healthy and full of life, whether you call it “aging gracefully” or “look younger”.

Unfortunately, a lot of products are marketed with “anti-aging” promises and promoted ingredients. But which actually do the job? To be a more empowered consumer it’s important to have a better understanding of how you age in the first place, and what is and isn’t in your control. 

Intrinsic vs Extrinsic Aging.

Intrinsic aging is chronological aging, or the aging that occurs as a result of time and genetics. Extrinsic aging is the aging caused by external factors, primarily UV exposure but also lifestyle and exposure to other environmental aggressors. These terms are typically used in relation to skin aging. 

Extrinsic aging has a greater influence than intrinsic. It’s believed that 80% of skin aging is due to sun exposure. This is actually good news, because it means you can control 80% of how your skin ages. 

Take Action

There are even things you can do improve intrinsic aging. Intrinsic aging is caused by decreased cell turnover, decreased cellular energy (cells need energy to divide), and decreased collagen production. 

Now, there is always interplay between extrinsic and intrinsic. For example, sun exposure damages cells, which hinders their ability to turnover and proliferate properly. It also damages collagen structures. 

So, being proactive about your exposures is one way to improve intrinsic aging processes.

Another is by using products that boost cellular energy. Dr. Simon Craw shared tips on what ingredients to look for. Craw has more than 25 years in pharmaceutical, biotechnology and skin care research and development. 

He recommended looking for products with vitamin B3 (aka Niacinamide) and adenosine. These are molecules used in a cell’s energy cycle. 

For collagen, there is some evidence that ingesting high-quality collagen improves skin. However, some say the jury is still out on whether ingestible collagen does improve the skin. Read here and here, and get nerdy here and here. 

Topical collagen can help with signs of aging but not in the way you think. Collagen molecules are too large to get below the surface of the skin. So applying topical collagen through skincare products really just moisturizes. Collagen peptides however are smaller and can be absorbed. Also, ingredients like Niacinamide boost collagen production. So, using an all-around high quality skincare routine will likely support your collagen needs more than purchasing collagen-labeled products.

So what about cell turnover? Exfoliation can help to a degree. It helps slough off dead skin cells so your products are applied to the new skin rather than the dead skin. 

Bottom Line

At the end of the day, know that you have way more control over how your skin ages than you think.

As Craw suggested, look for products that are backed by clinical research not just snazzy marketing. They can have both, but should definitely have the science to back up their claims. This ensures they have been validated to deliver the results they’re advertising. Look for products that are designed and tested to work together. Sometimes mixing brands can cause ingredients to cancel out or negatively interact. Finally, keep in mind that it’s not just about the percent of the ingredient in the product. It’s about the formula used, it’s about the entire system. As the saying goes, “The whole is greater than the sum of the parts.”

References

https://www.rodanandfields.com/en-us/blog/science-of-skincare/intrinsic-and-extrinsic-aging/

https://www.cedars-sinai.org/blog/collagen-supplements.html

https://europepmc.org/article/med/30681787?crsi=662497074&cicada_org_src=healthwebmagazine.com&cicada_org_mdm=direct&client=bot&client=bot

https://examine.com/supplements/type-ii-collagen/research/#interactions-with-aesthetics_skin

https://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/news/20191212/collagen-supplements-what-the-research-shows

https://www.rachboehm.com/tiptoradiate/what-you-dont-know-about-sun-exposure?rq=aging

https://www.allure.com/story/topical-collagen-for-skin

https://www.allure.com/story/what-is-niacinamide-skin-care-benefits